Travel + Leisure
By Adam Erace

On a windswept stretch of Scottish coastline, foragers, nanobrewers, and gifted young chefs are transforming the picture-postcard towns of Fife into a culinary wonderland.

Golf is the religion that brings most people to St. Andrews today. I follow the polo-shirted players into Rusacks hotel, where royal-blue sofas with cherry piping flank a crackling fireplace, and wallpaper-lined bookcases look like they lead to secret passages. The 135-year-old property reopened last September following a 50-room addition and total redesign; confident blocks of color and exuberant patterns now animate its cherished bones, much as the students of the University of St. Andrews make this historic city buzz.

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